antico pizza napoletana (atlanta, ga)

There's bad pizza, decent pizza, good pizza and then there's Antico's. I won't go as far to say that it's the best pizza in Georgia, the US or the world for that matter but there's no argument that Antico's is special. Located on Hemphill Ave. near downtown Atlanta, if you don't keep your eyes open, this pizzeria is easily missed.

The Blissful Glutton's post last month about what may be the best pizza in Atlanta (courtesy of Kit), hit the Atlanta pizza food scene like a torrential monsoon. It was big. On the same scale as Mt. Vesuvius erupting into a molten flurry of lava and magma but only more delicious. People trekked to Antico's from all over the state. North, south, west, east, inside the perimenter, outside the perimeter, you name it - it turned into a food mecca overnight.

It's not only the pizza that makes this place special. It's the visible hard work, dedication and service of the workers that truly make this pizza joint beautiful. As you wait for your pizza to cook in the imported oven from Naples (reaching temperatures up to 1000 degrees F), you can see the dough being tossed, pizza being cooked in the oven and female workers chopping up fresh ingredients. People smiling and happy while on the job. It's a really heartwarming scene.

Little Bro and I got the Margherita D.O.P. (san marzanos, bufala, basil, garlic). Fragrant aroma of the basil and tomatoes and an unevenly charred crust cut in front of your very own eyes. As for the pizza, it's delicious. Hands down, no argument and worth every single dollar. Thin, crispy base (for now), soft yet puffy and smoky crust topped off with ingredients of the highest quality. A culinary experience that doesn't do justice in words. So good that my 12 year old brother devoured half of the pie by himself. However, no food is perfect and there are caveats to this amazing pizza.

As many others have noted, this pizza is meant to be eaten right away. I'm talking right as it comes out of the oven. Sit down at the communal table (no room? Then stand) and savor a couple of slices before heading out. Because the base is so thin, the pizza can get soggy real fast ruining that crispy, thin texture of the Neapolitan. Also, my brother didn't really like how it was so blackened on the outside of his crusts and some may find this to be a turnoff. The final downfall that I've heard from the food community is the price. Pizza prices range from $17 - $21. I don't mind paying high prices for great food but not all people feel this way. A difference in viewpoint without a true solution or answer. However, there may be a solution to crispening up that soggy crust as noted by Jimmy at Eat It, Atlanta. Check out his blog to solve this dilemma.

(condiments on the communal table)

While I won't say it's the best or perfect pizza, Antico's dishes out delicious, high quality, and memorable pies that's definitely worth making a detour to check out. If there's a Michelin guide for pizzas, it would certainly be rated 3 stars. The communal table is a great way to experience their fresh, artisanal pies and share that magical moment with complete strangers. You may hear quite a bit of "This is so fucking good." going around the table but even those words can't epitomize the memorable moment you'll experience as you take that first mindblowing bite.

Tips:

• They don't have a set closing time. It's whenever the dough runs out. Like Jennifer Z. says on her blog, run don't walk.
• They're now serving lunch starting at 11:30am
• They're closed on Sundays
• Look for the Italian flag as Antico's is quite easy to miss.
• DO eat a slice or two on the premises.
• Free espresso is offered.